Water Heater Expansion Tank Problems (Troubleshooting & Fixes from a 25-Year Vet)

    Hearing banging pipes or a dripping T&P valve? Your water heater expansion tank might be shot. A 25-year vet shows you how to diagnose and fix it the right way.

    DIY Fix: $5–$20
    Pro Help: $150–$500
    Time: 15–120 min

    Quick Answer

    Okay so here's the quick version. If your water heater's pressure relief valve is dripping or your pipes are banging, your expansion tank is probably shot. Nine times out of ten, the rubber bladder inside has failed and the tank is full of water—they call it 'waterlogged.' You can check by tapping it; if it sounds solid all over, it's bad. Or press the little air valve on top—if water comes out, it's toast. Replacement is the only real fix. You can do it yourself for around $50-$120 for the tank, but a pro will charge you $300-$650.

    Water Heater Expansion Tank Problems (Troubleshooting & Fixes from a 25-Year Vet) visual diagram
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    Common Symptoms

    The Dripping T&P Valve
    Banging Pipes (Water Hammer)
    Leaky Faucets & Toilets
    The Tank Feels HEAVY
    Water from the Air Valve

    Possible Causes

    Diaphragm Failure, Plain and Simple: The internal rubber diaphragm gets old, brittle, and tears, allowing water to flood the air side and rendering the tank useless.
    Wrong Air Pressure: The air pre-charge in the tank doesn't match the house's water pressure, preventing it from absorbing pressure correctly.
    No Tank At All!: In a modern 'closed' plumbing system, the absence of an expansion tank means pressure from heated water has nowhere to go, causing dangerous spikes.
    Rust and Corrosion: The steel tank can rust from the inside or outside, eventually leading to leaks and failure.

    Step-by-Step Diagnosis

    1

    Step 1

    The Eyeball Test. Look for rust, corrosion, or water stains on or below the tank.

    2

    Step 2

    The Tap Test. Knock on the top and bottom of the tank. It should sound hollow on top and solid on the bottom. If it's solid all over, it's waterlogged.

    3

    Step 3

    Check the Air Valve. Briefly press the pin on the Schrader valve. If water squirts out, the internal diaphragm has failed and the tank needs replacement.

    4

    Step 4

    Actually Check the Pressure. With system water pressure relieved, use a tire gauge to check the air pressure. It should match your home's incoming water pressure (typically 40-80 PSI).

    Water Heater Expansion Tank Problems (Troubleshooting & Fixes from a 25-Year Vet)
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    DIY vs Professional Costs

    Adjusting Air Pressure
    DIY$0 - $20
    Pro$75 - $150
    Time30 minutes
    Expansion Tank Replacement
    DIY$50 - $120
    Pro$300 - $650
    Time1-2 hours
    New Installation (if none exists)
    DIY$70 - $150
    Pro$350 - $600+
    Time2-4 hours

    When to Call a Professional Water Heater

    • If water squirts out of the air valve, the tank is shot and needs replacing.
    • If your water heater's T&P relief valve is discharging frequently, indicating a potentially dangerous pressure situation.
    • If the tank itself is visibly leaking from a rust spot on its body.
    • If you don't have an expansion tank at all and need one installed to comply with plumbing codes and protect your system.
    • If you are uncomfortable with plumbing work, shutting off water, and draining parts of your system.

    Prevention Tips

    • Check the Air Pressure Annually: Relieve water pressure and use a tire gauge to ensure the tank's air pressure matches your home's water pressure.
    • Do the Tap Test: Every six months, tap the tank to ensure it still sounds hollow on top and solid on the bottom.
    • Keep an Eye on It: Regularly inspect the tank and its connections for any signs of rust, corrosion, or drips.
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