Quick Answer
Okay, so here's the quick version. You got a little ambitious with the loppers, and now your tree looks like it lost a fight. Most DIY pruning mistakes come from cutting too much off ('topping'), making ugly cuts that won't heal, or using dull, cheap tools. The result? A stressed-out, ugly tree that's a magnet for bugs and disease. To fix minor mistakes yourself, you'll need good tools and to learn what a proper cut looks like. Anything major—big branches, high cuts, or a seriously damaged tree—and you need to stop and call a certified arborist. Trying to fix it yourself can cost you the whole tree.
Common Symptoms
Possible Causes
Step-by-Step Diagnosis
Step 1
Stand back from the tree to assess its overall shape and structure. Note any unnatural flattening or lopsidedness.
Step 2
Get close and examine the cuts. Look for clean, angled cuts made just outside the branch collar, not flush against the trunk or leaving long stubs.
Step 3
Identify any large stubs left from 'topping' and check them for signs of softness, decay, or fungus.
Step 4
Scan the trunk and branches around the cuts for evidence of pest entry, like sawdust, or fungal bodies like mushrooms.
Step 5
For smaller trees, carefully give the trunk a firm push to feel for instability, which could indicate root problems or structural weakness from excessive pruning.
Step 6
Note any dead, diseased, or crossing branches that were missed during the pruning attempt, as these are ongoing health and safety risks.
DIY vs Professional Costs
| Repair Type | DIY Cost | Professional Cost | Time Required |
|---|---|---|---|
Corrective Pruning (to fix bad cuts) | $50-200 | $200-800 | 2-4 hours |
Complex Pruning/Large Branch Removal | Not Recommended | $500-2000+ | 4-8 hours |
Tree Removal (if irreparable) | Not Recommended | $500-5000+ | 1-2 days |
Arborist Consultation & Assessment | N/A | $75-200 | 1 hour |
When to Call a Professional Tree Service
- Anytime you are dealing with branches that are near, over, or even might touch a power line. Don't risk it.
- When the branch you need to cut requires you to use an extension ladder or leave the ground.
- If the job requires a chainsaw. These tools are extremely dangerous, especially when used overhead or on a ladder.
- If the tree is very large, shows signs of significant decay (like mushrooms on the trunk), or seems unstable.
- After you've already made significant pruning mistakes. Don't try to double down; get a professional opinion on how to salvage the tree.
- If you're unsure about what type of cut to make or how much to remove without harming the tree's long-term health.
Prevention Tips
- Educate yourself on basic tree biology, especially what a 'branch collar' is and how to make a proper three-point cut for larger limbs.
- Invest in quality, sharp bypass pruners (like Felco or ARS) and a good pruning saw (like a Silky). Don't use cheap, dull tools.
- Only prune during the correct season for your tree. For most deciduous trees, this is in the winter when they are dormant.
- Stick to the 'Three Ds': only remove branches that are Dead, Diseased, or Deranged (crossing/rubbing) and that you can reach safely from the ground.
- Never, ever stand on a ladder while operating a chainsaw. It's a recipe for a catastrophic accident.
- Wear appropriate safety gear, even for small jobs. This means gloves, sturdy shoes, and safety glasses at a minimum.
- If you have any doubt about a cut, a branch's stability, or your ability to do the job safely, stop and call a certified arborist.
Frequently Asked Questions
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